Porters Who Have Forgotten Dashain: "What Dashain, What Tihar! It's Always Like This

 The festive atmosphere of Dashain fills the air, with people returning home to celebrate. However, Navin Rai from Sotang, Solukhumbu, seems indifferent. On the day of Fulpati, instead of joining the festivities, he set off towards the high Himalayan region of Khumbu in search of loads to carry for tourists. At just 24 years old, Rai feels more burdened by responsibility than by the spirit of Dashain. While others return home, he embarks uphill in search of work.

"What difference does Dashain or Tihar make to us? It's always like this. Right now, it's tourist season in Khumbu. Friends have brought foreign tourists, so I'm heading out to carry their loads," Rai said with a deep sigh. "I have to work. I have to support my parents and siblings at home. If I stayed home to celebrate Dashain, how would we manage? I'll celebrate Dashain here in Khumbu while carrying loads."

Many youths from the lower regions of the district have flocked to Khumbu in search of work. Even students, usually busy with their studies, take advantage of the Dashain holiday to carry loads for tourists in Lukla. Amrit Magar, a tourism entrepreneur from Lukla, mentioned that these youths can earn up to 2,000 rupees daily by carrying loads. Ramesh Bik, a student from Mapyadudh Koshi, currently studying at a college in Salleri, has also reached Namche during the holiday season. He explained that since he has to attend college the rest of the year, he comes to Khumbu during the Dashain and Tihar holidays to work as a porter. "This is the season to earn for my educational expenses. The money I make by carrying tourists' loads helps me cover my study costs," Bik shared.

While the rest of the country sees a rush of people returning home to celebrate Dashain, the bustling activity of porters in the Khumbu region almost makes one forget about the festival. Pradip Magar from Gorakhani, carrying a heavy load uphill, remarked, "We don't care much for Dashain. If we don't work now, we won't be able to manage for the rest of the year. Every year, I come here during the tourist season. I haven't celebrated Dashain in five years. Foreigners come during this time, and we have to guide them around. How can we celebrate Dashain?"

Khumbu, considered one of the world's premier tourist destinations, is currently in the midst of its 'tourist season.' As a result, many tourism professionals prioritize trekking over festivals like Dashain and Tihar. According to the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, about 300 foreign tourists enter the Khumbu region daily. Amrit Magar from Lukla noted that, for young people involved in the tourism business, the arrival of tourists brings more excitement than festivals. "Dashain, celebrated once a year, is certainly special for everyone, but just enjoying the festivities doesn't sustain our families. So, we come here with friends to please the tourists. We forget our own happiness in making them happy," he said.

Most young people involved in tourism have already reached Khumbu. With the tourist season beginning at the end of August, young people remain busy with their work, paying little attention to the festivals. Khumbu sees two main tourist seasons each year: March, April, May, and October, and then November and December. This time, too, the Khumbu region is packed with both domestic and foreign tourists.

Dik Bahadur Darnal, a tourism entrepreneur from Serkasing, shared that as the number of tourists arriving to witness the Everest and other Himalayan ranges increases, young people come to Khumbu to work as porters and guides. "Since the tourist season only lasts about six months a year, we focus on running our business during this time rather than celebrating Dashain. This business sustains our households, so even if we want to, we can't stay home for the festivals," Darnal explained. Having worked as a tourist guide for about two decades, Darnal mentioned that this is how each year passes for him. Trekking companies send workers home during the off-season but call them back during tourist season, which means leaving festivals behind to focus on business.

Currently, Lukla sees more than 200 flights a day, bringing over 1,000 tourists into Khumbu daily, according to Umesh Panthi, head of the Nepal Civil Aviation Authority in Lukla. With the influx of tourists, the hotels and lodges in Khumbu are fully booked, as noted by hotelier Lama Kaji Sherpa from Namche. "Hotels that are usually empty are packed now. It's hard to find accommodation," he said.

The surge in tourists has kept the local staff busy as well. Employees at the local municipality's check post in Lukla and the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint in Jorsalle are also busy. Manoj Kumar Mandal, an information officer at Namche, explained that the staff had to take turns to celebrate Dashain due to the increased tourist traffic. "With so few staff and so many tourists, we have to gather and record a lot of data. Not everyone gets to go home. We are enjoying our work here," he added.